Located 110km east of Kupang, the small city of Soe is the only centre of any size outside Kupang. There’s not a lot to see in the city itself other than the underwhelming Amanuban Palace and adjacent royal cemetery. The caves directly behind the main building are passably interesting because they contain skulls that were brought there from the headhunting village of None.
However, with its central location, ample accommodation, transport, restaurants and other basic facilities, Soe is the logical base from which explore the surrounding traditional villages, waterfalls and the delightful Gunung Mutis Nature Reserve. The city can be reached by public transport from Kupang in around 3 hours but you’ll need to arrange a car with driver, scooter or ojek to get to the surrounding attractions.