The western side of the island is noticeably greener than its eastern counterpart due to a higher annual rainfall. Horses and cattle grazing in green river valleys, golden rice fields, plantations of mahogany and teak and edible crops such as cashew, avocado and mango are the order of the day.
Anakalang district, located between Waibakul and Waikabubak has the greatest concentration of megalithic tombs on the island, due in large part to the fact the locals still practice the ancient tradition of tombstone building. Pasunga village just outside Waibakul has several huge megalithic tombs, including an intricately carved vertical tombstone erected by a village chief for his wife. 4km’s to the south, Gallubakul village has the biggest megalithic tombstone in Sumba, estimated at 70 tonne.
For a change of pace, follow the road southwest from Gallubakul for about 9km to the impressive Matayangu Waterfall. Dwarfed by a sheer limestone mountain, the 75m high falls seem almost incidental but it’s an amazing view lying back in the water looking up. Lapopu Waterfall lies 2.5km’s further south. You’ll need to pay a small entry fee to the waiting locals villages who will then guide you along to the falls. It’s a pleasant, hour long walk across rice fields, bamboo bridges and patches of jungle with a rewarding swim at the end.